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Below you will find a tool for Stanley plane identification, specifically dating Stanley planes and identifying the type of your Stanley Bailey woodworking bench hand planes. Also, stanley type studies like this are most accurate for No. This tool does not work for the Stanley Bedrock planes or transitional planes. Hi guys and ladies I plead total ignorance since I work with steel in my private time. The plane lived on the coast for an unknown time and was rusty. I started to remove rust and old paint and discovered that there was black paint under some blue paint. I suspected some fool smoked something and painted it blue because he liked blue.

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Stanley 71 Dating An average looking middle of the road type of guy is simply not going to get much sex Stanley 71 Dating unless you really put some thought into it. You are also correct that most women would really prefer Stanley 71 Dating to have a relationship than casual sex. The solution is to dress nice, appear charming and funny, be / Stanley 71 Dating, daeun and sehun dating, men's online dating profiles examples, who is dutchess from black ink dating/ Stanley 71 router. offered 7 1/2" long with 3 cutters 1/4", 1/2" & V-shape earliest model had a closed throat see 71 1/2. One of the few Stanley tools that sells equally well in the English or the American version.

You will receive mail with link to set new password. By Joshua T. Farnsworth Below you will find a tool for Stanley plane identification, specifically dating Stanley planes and identifying the type of your Stanley Bailey woodworking bench hand planes. Most reacted comment. Hottest comment thread. Recent comment authors.

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Are you able to help me identify my plane. All i can workout it is a bailey no4 sweetheart. Would the same type identification process work for the corrugated versions?

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Notice: JavaScript is required for this content. Personal Pay. You can find first model examples that are modified to accept a homemade depth stop. The cutters are secured with small cast iron clips, which are held to the main casting with small thumb screws. These thumb screws, as well as the thumb screws that are used to hold the depth stop, can strip out. Be sure to check these as it's a fairly common problem on this plane and the 98 and The screws that hold the nose piece in place are countersunk so that they don't interfere with the plane's cutting action.

"How Many Patent Dates do you see behind the handplane frog?"

These screws are often seized in place from the plane's sitting idle for so long. Some common damage to be aware of for this plane, and the 98 and 99 side rabbets, is a stress crack that runs parallel to the cutter.

Restoring a Stanley 71 1/2 Router Plane - AMAZING TOOL

The crack is easy to spot by examining the plane from its backside, the flat side of the plane. Look carefully about the top of the mouth to the side where the bed meets the mouth. The crack is usually the result of too much pressure being applied by the plane's blade clamping device, which is nothing but a cast piece secured by a thumb screw.

On the models with the depth stop, you have to remove it to examine the areas for stress cracks. Most of these planes are found fully nickel plated. During WWII, the plane was japanned. These models are fairly scarce. These are hybrid planes, where wooden plane meets metal plane in a short-lived union. In fact, these are Stanley's only planes they ever offered that may remotely be considered wooden planes.

Stanley may have made these planes as their answer to the finer infill planes that were all the rage in England.

How to Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age and Type (Type Study Tool)

Of course, this is pure speculation, but it does seem strange that an iron plane slinging company would take to making a plane that sure has a goodly amount of wood as part of it. The plane is made up of a one piece U-shaped metal sole, which is bent upward to form the sides of the plane. Sandwiched inside this chunk of metal are two pieces of wood stuffing - one forward of the cutter, and one behind the cutter as the bed.

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These pieces of wood are secured to the metal with countersunk screws. The wood stuffing has the patent date stamped forward of the cutter, and the company logo behind the cutter. The plane is not marked with the model number.

A long rod extends through the back piece of wood, onto which a cast iron japanned clamp is attached on the cutter side, with a brass thumb screw over a brass washer threaded on the heel. When the thumb screw is turned, it pulls the clamp up against the slotted cutter, increasing the pressure on it to hold the cutter in place. This method of securing the cutter is nearly identical to one of the first blade securing mechanisms ever patented in this country - the one by Thomas Worall, a former Baptist minster turned planemaker.

His patent ofwhile working in Charlestown, Boston, and Lowell, MA, had to be the inspiration for the later Stanley design, and Stanley didn't have to worry about patent infringement as the Worall patent had expired by the time Stanley put this plane in production.

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These planes are very difficult to find in good condition. Makes a guy wonder whether the planes were used for rabbeting railroad ties, or something like that. Most of the planes have their mouths filed wider to open them up, probably because many an American woodworker of the day wouldn't appreciate a tight mouth if it came up and hit him on his, well, his mouth.

Actually, the planes have a major design problem - they choke very easily with the mouth as Stanley provided, and in order for them to work well, the mouth had to be filed open somewhat; the face of the iron, along its edges, butts right against the steel see the 90 version of this plane for an image of the other side of the plane, where there is a very slight relief to the steel ahead of the iron, but only for a too short distance.

Thus, you're more likely to find the proverbial needle in a haystack before you find one of these planes that hasn't been on the wrong end of a file. The plane was first offered without the iron skewed, which is fine for rabbeting with the grain, but Stanley soon realized that most most wooden rabbet planes have skewed irons to assist the plane when working across the grain, so they soon redesigned the plane to have a skewed iron.

The first model also uses a captive lever cap and a round brass thumb screw to secure the iron. The lever cap pivots on a pin that is fastened to the steel sides. The clever reader might take notice that there are two 80 's offered by Stanley. This plane, the wooden 90and the bull nose 11are the only common Stanley plane numbers that were re-issued; there are two 80 's - this rabbet plane and the cabinet scraper follows - and two 90 's - the other wooden rabbet plane - and two 11 's - the beltmakers plane and the bull nose cabinetmaker's rabbet plane.

The 80 and 90 planes were never offered concurrently, so there was never any confusion over which plane was which, but the 11 's were offered concurrently, with the bull nose rabbet likely only offered over in England. The common scraper that many a cabinetmaker owned, if he didn't want to burn his fingers.

The middle portion of the cast iron tool is semi-rectangular in shape and has two handles, sorta gullwing-like, which flank the 'rectangle'. The blade is fit into a milled 'bed' of the rectangular area and is secured in place with a flat bar of metal; the blade tilts toward the flat bar. The flat bar puts pressure against the blade by means of two thumb screws that thread into the main casting; this arrangement is what secures the blade to the tool, and a nail pushed through the holes in the thumb screws permits the blade to be secured tightly.

To the rear of the blade, on the other side of the casting, is another thumb screw, which when turned puts some pressure on the blade from behind causing the blade to bow or spring.

This action puts a slight curve on the blade and is, in essence, the blade's depth adjuster; turning the thumb screw to the right increases the blade's set, while turning it to the left decreases it. The handles each have a hole drilled in them so that it can be hung out of the way.

The blade is ground to a 45 degree bevel and has the hook turned toward the flat side of the blade. When the blade is inserted into the tool do this from the sole so that you don't injure the burrbe sure that the hook is oriented so that it's toward the direction in which the blade leans. The tool is pushed with the blade leaning away from you. A solid grip and moderate downward pressure on the handles will have you scraping in no time.

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Your fingers will thank you daily when you use this common tool. The one knock on the tool is that it doesn't have the fine adjusting mechanism that the 12 family of scrapers do and that the blade can't be pitched for optimal performance on a given wood like the 12 can.

The entire plane is japanned, but the thumb screws and flat bar are nickel plated. The tool's vintage can be determined by the logo stamped on the flat bar and on the cutter. The first model of the scraper has the leading edge relative to the direction the tool is pushed of the main casting cast straight across, whereas the later models have the same edge cast convex.

The earliest model has the patent date embossed into the tool. This is the malleable iron version of the tool, probably aimed at the punks that populated the trade schools to keep the tool intact after they got done throwing it at each other, running it through the tablesaw, using it as a doorstop, etc.

The plane is embossed "80M". This model isn't found as frequently as its grey iron brother, the 80but that doesn't make it valuable, except as a user or maybe even as a boomerang in the outback.

Curiously, Stanley chose to slap a red label on the box for this tool instead of the common green label that was in widespread use when this plane was manufactured. Red was the color used for the Bed Rock line of bench planes. Perhaps Stanley had some red ink left over, and rather than using it on the balance sheets they chose to use it for this plane's label instead. This is a nickel plated and fancier version of the It has a captive pivoting lever cap that is activated by a thumb screw to secure the blade into place.

The scraper has a rosewood sole screwed to the bottom with four screws, one each near the corners of the sole. This was offered for the finest scraping, where wood on wood is thought to be preferable by some. The tool also has holes drilled into the handle to hang it out of the way while not in use.

What it doesn't have is a fine adjustment mechanism for the blade, so you'll have to have a light touch, and be very familiar with the finer points of scraping, before you tackle this one. That is, if you intend to use it and not collect it. If you find one that has the screw points poking through the sole, it's time for a replacement, if you intend to use it. The reason why is left as an exercise for the reader.

You can use whatever wood you wish as a replacement since finding a source of brazilian rosewood isn't easy for most folks. The blades used in the 12 family scrapers are not interchangeable with this tool - they are too wide for it. The blades used in the 80 are too short for this tool.

So, if you need a blade for it, you'll have to search for it as the blade to this one is a unique dimension. The WWII version of this tool is japanned, and is rather rare, but since no one collects worlwartwotypes said in as few syllables as possible no one really cares about them. The handles have the rippled texture to the casting, like that of the 66 beader.

The blade is prepared like the the 12 's. Another scraper, which sorta looks like the 70 box scraper. It has a long, turned wooden handle, which has a pivoting portion to hold the scraper blade.

Stanley All features identical to Type 3 except: "STANLEY" and "No. /2" now cast in old English script. The base now has a "checkered" design cast into it. The screw holes in the base were now drilled at the factory. An extra V-shaped smoothing cutter (shown at right) was provided starting in Stanley Plane Identification: How to Identify Antique Stanley Bailey Hand Plane Age and Type? By Joshua T. Farnsworth. Below you will find a tool for Stanley plane identification, specifically dating Stanley planes and identifying the type of your Stanley . TimeTestedtools Dating for Sargent single number or Shaw patent series. Union Planes and What I know about them. Stanley Bench Planes. (The best books are Antique & Collectible Stanley Tools Guide to Identity & Value and Patented Transitional and Metallic Planes in America) TimeTestedTools Dating for Stanley-Bailey's.

This pivoting portion has a turned knob, which is gripped in the other hand, and a clamping mechanism to secure the blade. The advantage of a scraper of this design is that the blade can be adjustable to different angles, and the workman could bear down on it better than other designs. There are two designs of this tool. The first model has the lever cap screw on the face opposite the turned knob.

This model uses a simple thumb screw that passes through a slotted arc-shaped piece to secure the blade at one of four angles there are four notches cut into the slot of the arc-shaped part. During the early 's, the tool was redesigned to take advantage of a new patent that called for notches cut into two opposing mating surfaces. These notches don't allow the 'infinite' freedom of the blade's position either since the notches in the pivotting assembly slip into each other in a predetermined fashion.

On the positive side, these notches offer greater 'holding' power and won't slip under a heavy load like the previous design can.

The redesign also called for a spring, located behind the front knob on the opposite face, to cushion the blade and eliminate chatter. To accomodate these two changes, the turned knob was moved to a position slight lower on the clamping mechanism and the lever cap screw was repositioned to the same face as the turned knob.

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Because of the way the blade is clamped in place, and because the clamping mechanism is unencumbered to either side, the tool is capable of holding blades of any width, making it useful for scraping into weird locations that aren't accessible by the other scrapers. Paint scraper blades, in the shape of a broad and flattened U were also provided for this piece later in its production. The handle and knob are maple, and on the earliest examples they have a clear finish on them.

Starting in the early 's, the finish became a deep maroon. A ferrule is situated at the juncture of the handle and where the cast iron 'tang' is inserted into it.

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The cast iron portion of the plane is japanned, while the thumb screws are nickel plated. This is one of those strange tools that makes you wonder who would ever design such a thing, let alone manufacture it.

It's basically a rectangular casting that accepts a caster-like roller, and has a turned wooden handle screwed onto it. The handle, which is maple or beech with a clear finish on it, is shaped like a dumbbell but with sausage-shaped ends that are gripped in each hand. Between the two 'sausages' is a cylindrical portion through which a countersunk screw fits into the main casting.

The handle can be removed to permit the scraper to work into odd corners. The main casting is nickel plated, and has 3 thumb screws threaded into it.

There are two screws that hold the blade in place; the blade slips into two slit-like slots cut into respective swellings of the main casting.

#71 1/2 Router plane, 7 1/2"L, various widths, 2 1/8lbs, Good old Stanley, coming up with a new model number to designate a plane that was born after the redesign of the # This plane is nothing but the first model version of the #71! It has a closed throat; i.e., there is no arching of the sole forward of the cutter.

These areas can crack since they carry much of the strain placed upon the tool during its use; look about them for any repairs or hairline cracks. The earliest examples have the patent date proudly embossed above the handle.

Between these two swellings is a conical portion of the casting which rises above the rest of the main casting. This conical portion has a vertical hole drilled through it and accepts a sliding post that in turn terminates with a roller. The sliding post is positioned within the conical portion via a thumbscrew. This area of the main casting also is susceptible to damage since it, too, carries a great amount of strain during use; a close scrutiny about it is wise.

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The roller itself is maple or beech and it, along with its captive post, is usually missing in action. The wooden roller is sometimes found cracked or with missing chunks out of it. The post that carries the roller has a flat milled on it so that the thumbscrew can lock it in place better and so that the roller aligns properly relative to the blade; if the roller were allowed to be positioned so that its axis isn't parallel to the face of the blade, the tool would want to wander in a direction you don't want it to go.

So, what's the supposed appeal of this contraption? The presence of the roller eliminates the strain placed upon the wrists and hands during the tool's use. Also, the pitch of the blade can be customized simply by sliding the post up or down through the main casting; moving the roller closer to the main casting pitches the blade at a steeper angle. The roller can be positioned so that the scraper is oriented to make inoperable.

The tool can be pulled or pushed. You want to make sure that the roller precedes the blade so it doesn't leave any track marks on the wood; i. Forget this dumb tool and get a real scraper, like a 12 orinstead.

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It does have a plus side, however - it's the widest of all the Stanley-made scrapers since it can accept a 4" wide blade, but the blades are normally long gone in these things.

A 12 blade will not fit into this tool; it's too wide and too thick to slip into the slits cut for it in the main casting. You need a thinner iron to work in this tool. This is a scraper plane with a rabbet mouth and tilting knob and tote. It is designed to work into corners, where the knob and tote are tilted to prevent smashing your knuckles, an application that every woodworker does at least 3 times daily.

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It is a two piece construction, where a captive pivoting lever cap is pinned to another L-shaped piece, which is in turn screwed to the bottom casting much like the frog of the common Bailey bench plane is.

The blade is secured into the frog using a thumb screw, as might be guessed, but it does so in a manner opposite what is common on other planes. The thumb screw is not on the pivoting lever cap but is located behind the cutter.

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As the thumb screw is tightened, it throws the top of the cutter forward toward the top of the lever cap, causing the lever cap to pivot, ultimately placing pressure at the bottom of the lever cap over the width of the cutter. The plane has the lever cap screw arranged thus since there isn't enough room to accomodate it freely due to the fact that the frog leans toward the knob; there isn't sufficient clearance between frog and knob.

Look for any signs of repair or breakage where the lever cap is pinned to the L-shaped piece. The frog can be adjusted forward or backward somewhat to regulate the opening of the mouth. This is done manually, by backing off the pressure of the two screws, which hold the frog to the bottom casting. Between these two screws, and a bit behind them, is another smaller set screw.

This screw can be turned to adjust slightly the blade's pitch. If it is set too much, and too much presure is applied to the frog's other two screws, cracking of the frog's casting can occur about the set screw.



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